This is an add on for my tablet Selfie Cam found here made with Cardboard, Spray paint, and black electrical tape.
It makes it a little easier for the subject to see themselves on the tablet in any lighting condition.
First we take the tablet case and a Cardboard box with Flaps that are about 5-6 inches in length and cut out the section we'll need from the rest.
Lay out the case to a corner.
Fold the crevice for the other 2 sides
Cut the length as you need while maintaining flap space needed, and recut new corners.
Cut a hole for the Arm to fit through to the back
Fit the Tablet case and take the opportunity to identify any hold you will need. This was my first attempt so I made some holes after the effect.
Since the main purpose for this is photography, and the speakers are already in the front you'll just need a hold for the sleep/power button, and the cable the attaches to the camera.
Ignore the strange "h" in the middle as I confused myself with this first attempt but the hole in the top is for the cable because I have to install the tablet upside down in order for it to be able to rest on the Camera. At the same time I want minimum sunlight in the box so I made the top holes what that in mind which result in this.
This method also prevents kinking of the cable.
Once your holes have been made peel off any stickers you may find to keep the surface rough for spray painting which is pretty self-explanatory
Once your piece is dry which took less that 10 minutes on a hot sunny day enough when double coated, you can tape the edges across horizontally before sealing it vertically with the black electrical tape.
Only do this with the top two corners because you will need to be able to access the mount with the case from the bottom like so.
Seal off the Edges with some more Black Electrical tape and you're done.
My monitors always look amazing, but they are at their best
when I use the YCbCr444 setting instead of the standard RGB, the issue was I
was only ever able to have the center Display changed to that setting when I
run surround, the two monitors on the side always stay stuck in RGB thus they
were lighter and didn’t look as good, until now.
Extra: my post on Bezel thinning can be found here
Extra #2 : I'm using SweetFX found here
The Center is alway on the right blacks you just can't it best through a photo, but phone camera was the only way to show the distortions cause it wouldn't have shown via a screenshot.
Right side Before
Right side After
Left side Before
Left side After
I’ve only been able to change it to last for the duration my
computer is on, which means this will have to be done over again at startup
before your gaming session, but it doesn’t take long and I think it’s worth the
few seconds each time in order to fully appreciate your Nividia surround.
Geforce driver 337.88 released 5/26/2014 and later.
HDMI to HDMI
on Card #2 HDMI to DVI on Card #1HDMI to HDMI on Card#1(Assigned Physx on this Card)
Set-up INSTRUCTIONS
1.Right click and select NIVIDIA Control Panel
2.Under Display, select Adjust desktop color
settings
3.Click Restore default on the top right corner
and Apply
4.Then select YCbCr444 from the color format
click Apply
5Select Use Nividia Settings and change the
hue to 4 degrees while changing the Color Format back to RGB and Apply
The monitors
will then overlap the YCbCr444 black to the side monitors and save it in their
own memory while chaning the center to the lighter RGB.
6. Select YCbcr444 format again and now all three
Displays will have the same colors of true blacks.
Every-day
Log in Instructions after initial set up
When you log
off the only thing that will save is the YCbCr444 in the color format while the
two side monitors will be lighter in toned again. Now and simply follow the following
same step
1.Right click and select NIVIDIA Control Panel
2.Under Display, select Adjust desktop color
settings
3.Click Restore default on the top right corner
and Apply
4.Select Use NIVIDIA settings and Applyif you don't see a change move the hue to 2-4 then apply
5.Then select YCbCr444 from the color format
click Apply
*Edit my new Brake Spring arrived today so I'll add that part in this tutorial as well.
I'm doing this as a modular set instead of a set chair, because I want it to be accessible when I need it and out of my way when I don't. I'm noticing a trend in gaming, with it being more sandboxy. There is a merger of 3rd person fps, with RPG, driving, flying, and even boating. I figure at the very least this is a low risk , and relatively inexpensive weekend project. Be forewarned this does void the 1 year warrenty.
Maybe this can even contribute to other gamers that would like to be a little bit more prepared. I mean can you imagine if a game like WatchDogs had support for racing wheels? To all of the sudden get in to drive from an fps, you opponent is using a controller, while you just put down you mouse and pick up your wheel and pedals, and started drifting the corners; you'll be in a totally different league.
Tutorial
First I'm going to show how to open the case in order to change the position of the pedals, I'm doing this because I want to flip the pedals upside down from stock so that It would be like a real car, and because I want to still use the case to keep all the dust and dirt away from the circuitry.
Start by using an Alan Wrench to take out the peddle heads, use a pair of pliers if its too tight
Line up the parts you take out so you can use the same screws later.
Get a box and flip it over to take out all 14 silver screws which include two under the carpet mat, you might need to use a smaller watch screwdriver and pliers to take those out, use the magnet tip screwdriver to help take it out without it falling after.
line up your screws
flip it over and slowly remove the cover and take out the two scews holding the cable.
Flip it over again into the box and remove the 12 black screws careful
to put the screw away to a map so you'll be using the ones to the same
metal threads later
Now the pedals will be labeled A, B, C from left to right for Acceleration, Brake, and Clutch, but when we flip it upside down we would want it to be C, B, A, however I personally like having my Brake as far from the Acceleration as possible, So I opted for a B, C, A set up,
*update
There are some notablely better springs for the G27 or G25 Brakes out there, Thanks to Inside Sim Racing for introducing me to GTEYE. It is the closest and cheapest I'll go for a brake mod without requiring a chair mount, but I will need light or thin sole shoes to to maximize the output now.
Alternatively you can find a spring specialist in your city or area to make if for way cheaper.
He placed it in the wrong way. It should have been loose side closer to the pedal head.
I upgraded it, and used my former break spring as another upgrade for
my overlysoft Clutch (I'll keep the old clutch spring as a spare for the
gas, yeah it was that light)
at this point I just use some black electrical trap to secure the wires in good, non tightening positions and reinstalled the cover.
Time to go Shopping!
I did the price comparision between Home Depot and Rona, and found the former to be 2-4 dollars cheaper for the metal sink hole angles and rails I needed, however the help at Rona was the one that refered me to the proper specialty store for the screws I need to hardmount the pedals to the rack. Just saying.
I already had a board laying around, and I never really remember how much the little screws cost me so those might differ and offset the cost a bit.
For the Padels
1 1/2 72" Sink Hole Steel Angle $15.99 ea
2 1/2 36" Sink Hole Steel Rail $ 9.99 ea
10 5/16 x 3/4 nuts (2611) $ 0.?? For sink hole rack
10 5/16 x 3/4 bolts (2820) $ 0.?? For sink hole rack
1 Small Box of 8 x 5/8 woodscrews For board
8 Washers that fit 8 x 5/8 woodscrews For board
1 Black Matt spray pint&prime $9.49
6 Metric 6 bolts HMC6-35(Canadian), or Metric 6 x 1.0 (US) For hard mount
6 Metric 6 washers For hard mount
For the Shifter
I'll talk about this later.
1 1/2 rubber Grommet, or O-ring
1 Roll of Draft trap the small and foamy one
All in all
about $50 bucks I swear I will keep all receipts from now on just so I
can show off that I can keep a better account of things however small.
The dimensions of my board is 13.6' in length and 24' wide
use a Sharpie and outline at least 2 faces of the angle for a proper cut
use a Hack saw and a vice, and commence cutting, * note I'm almost ambidextrous at this point because I keep using my left hand to do labour over long periods because it has a better, angle, which helps alot.
I brought in my pedals at this point to determine the height which is aobut 16 inches.
after some more cutting its time to mark and cut the side braces, which is the off the same material I shall be using for the back brace, just make sure you cute once off each 36" rail stock or you won't have enough. Attach your nuts and bolts as planned when you are done. I love working with this material because I can try to mimic one side to another by counting the holes, That and I don't have cut as much through the steel when there is always a hole in the middle.
screw the angles down on the board with the 8x5/8 screws and washer, then plan your back brace to alight with at least one hole in the center to save some work. You'll have to use a sharpie once again mark out where you'll need to adjust, take time for the holes to hard mount.
The power drill did nothing for me, I have to manually take a circular filer and GRIND like a brute. this is the most physical, and psychologically challenging part of the project so wear ear muffs, and Good Luck.
Take that same circular file and make a spot for the cable to run through, Before you spray paint it for looks.
Assemble the hard mount bolts to the back with their washers and Volla! An inverted peddle system to simulate real- racing.
Next I'm going to further explain a short tutorial done by RichmoTech
Based on the feedback of the discussions off this vid, I've decided to try Drafting tape instead of the velco, which never made sense to me.
I disassemble in much the same way except I set it up so that I will 100% use the same screws I take out.
I measured 5.8 inches in length after 3 tries which is ok because you can take the previous attempt to match up against the next cut with a little added length till you get it right.
I start in 1st gear so the shaft would be out of the way as I enter the padding on a side.
I then enter in reverse so that the shaft could put pressure up against the lip
Following in sequence to 4th , 1st, 3rd gears until everything is secured, but for good measure after I re-assembled everything I would leave it on one for the gears a day to make it soft and tight.
This is going to be the last Mod I do for a while, till the no-glasses 3d tablet and Kula deeper lens cap come out. If I were to mod the steering wheel as-well it would be expansive cause I would need new Flaps, buttons, and lights, as well as the wheel, and socket port. I just have something more important to do...
