Logitech G27 Pedal and shift mods

I have a nact for Modding things upside down.

 *Edit my new Brake Spring arrived today so I'll add that part in this tutorial as well.

I'm doing this as a modular set instead of a set chair, because I want it to be accessible when I need it and out of my way when I don't. I'm noticing a trend in gaming, with it being more sandboxy. There is a merger of 3rd person fps, with RPG, driving, flying, and even boating. I figure at the very least this is a low risk , and relatively inexpensive weekend project. Be forewarned this does void the 1 year warrenty.

Maybe this can  even contribute to other gamers that would like to be a little bit more prepared.  I mean can you imagine if a game like WatchDogs had support for racing wheels? To all of the sudden get in to drive from an fps, you opponent is using a controller, while you just put down you mouse and pick up your wheel and pedals, and started drifting the corners; you'll be in a totally different league.

Tutorial

First I'm going to show how to open the case in order to change the position of the pedals, I'm doing this because I want to flip the pedals upside down from stock so that It would be like a real car, and because I want to still use the case to keep all the dust and dirt away from the circuitry.

 Start by using an Alan Wrench to take out the peddle heads, use a pair of pliers if its too tight

 Line up the parts you take out so you can use the same screws later.

 Get a box and flip it over to take out all 14 silver screws which include two under the carpet mat, you might need to use a smaller watch screwdriver and pliers to take those out, use the magnet tip screwdriver to help take it out without it falling after.

 line up your screws

 flip it over and slowly remove the cover and take out the two scews holding the cable.

 

 

 Flip it over again into the box and remove the 12 black screws careful to put the screw away to a map so you'll be using the ones to the same metal threads later

Remove the plastic cover

 Now the pedals will be labeled A, B, C from left to right  for Acceleration, Brake, and Clutch, but when we flip it upside down we would want it to be C, B, A, however I personally like having my Brake as far from the Acceleration as possible, So I opted for a B, C, A set up, 

*update

There are some notablely better springs for the G27 or G25 Brakes out there, Thanks to Inside Sim Racing for introducing me to GTEYE. It is the closest and cheapest I'll go for a brake mod without requiring a chair mount, but I will need light or thin sole shoes to to maximize the output now.

Alternatively you can find a spring specialist in your city or area to make if for way cheaper.

He placed it in the wrong way. It should have been loose side closer to the pedal head. 

I upgraded it, and used my former break spring as another upgrade for my overlysoft Clutch (I'll keep the old clutch spring as a spare for the gas, yeah it was that light)

at this point I just use some black electrical trap to secure the wires in good, non tightening positions and reinstalled the cover.

Time to go Shopping!

I did the price comparision between Home Depot and Rona, and found the former to be 2-4 dollars cheaper for the metal sink hole angles and rails I needed, however the help at Rona was the one that refered me to the proper specialty store for the screws I need to hardmount the pedals to the rack. Just saying.

I already had a board laying around, and I never really remember how much the little screws cost me so those might differ and offset the cost a bit.

For the Padels

• 1       1/2 72" Sink Hole Steel Angle $15.99 ea
• 2       1/2 36" Sink Hole Steel Rail    $  9.99 ea
• 10     5/16 x 3/4 nuts    (2611)           $  0.??           For sink hole rack
• 10     5/16 x 3/4 bolts   (2820)           $ 0.??             For sink hole rack
• 1       Small Box of 8 x 5/8 woodscrews                For board
• 8       Washers that fit 8 x 5/8 woodscrews             For board
• 1       Black Matt spray pint&prime  $9.49 
• 6      Metric 6 bolts HMC6-35(Canadian), or Metric 6 x 1.0 (US) For hard mount
• 6      Metric 6 washers                                                                     For hard mount

For the Shifter 

I'll talk about this later.

• 1      1/2 rubber Grommet, or O-ring
• 1      Roll of Draft trap the small and foamy one 

All in all about $50 bucks I swear I will keep all receipts from now on just so I can show off that I can keep a better account of things however small.

 The dimensions of my board is 13.6' in length and 24' wide

use a Sharpie and outline at least 2 faces of the angle for a proper cut

use a Hack saw and a vice, and commence cutting, * note I'm almost ambidextrous at this point because I keep using my left hand to do  labour over long periods because it has a better, angle, which helps alot.

I brought in my pedals at this point to determine the height which is aobut 16 inches.

after some more cutting its time to mark and cut the side braces, which is the off the same material I shall be using for the back brace, just make sure you cute once off each 36" rail stock or you won't have enough.  Attach your nuts and bolts as planned when you are done. I love working with this material because I can try to mimic one side to another by counting the holes, That and I don't have cut as much through the steel when there is always a hole in the middle.

screw the angles down on the board with the 8x5/8 screws and washer, then plan your back brace to alight with at least one hole in the center to save some work. You'll have to use a sharpie once again mark out where you'll need to adjust, take time for the holes to hard mount.

The power drill did nothing for me, I have to manually take a circular filer and GRIND like a brute. this is the most physical, and psychologically challenging part of the project so wear ear muffs, and  Good Luck.

Take that same circular file and make a spot for the cable to run through, Before you spray paint it for looks.

Assemble the hard mount bolts to the back with their washers and Volla! An inverted peddle system to simulate real- racing.

 Next I'm going to further explain a short tutorial done by RichmoTech

Based on the feedback of the discussions off this vid, I've decided to try Drafting tape instead of the velco, which never made sense to me.

I disassemble in much the same way except I set it up so that I will 100% use the same screws I take out.

 I measured 5.8 inches in length after 3 tries which is ok because you can take the previous attempt to match up against the next cut with a little added length till you get it right.

 I start in 1st gear so the shaft would be out of the way as I enter the padding on a side.

 I then enter in reverse so that the shaft could put pressure up against the lip

Following in sequence to 4th , 1st, 3rd gears until everything is secured, but for good measure after I re-assembled everything I would leave it on one for the gears a day to make it soft and tight.

This is going to be the last Mod I do for a while, till the no-glasses 3d tablet and Kula deeper lens cap come out. If I were to mod the steering wheel as-well it would be expansive cause  I would need new Flaps, buttons, and lights, as well as the wheel, and socket port.  I just have something more important to do...

Computer or TV? How about Both, Neither, And One or the Other with Convience!

I have now finalize my setup for the foreseeable future with my workstation / Cave. So now whereever or whenever I move I'll have the layout for optimal working and leisure conditions. This blueprint is the result of hours of experimentation that has satisfied my criteria for: Field of view, Openness, Privacy,and Ergonomic.

 

Slight influence is drawn from the Helmsman console's position relative to the big screen like in 

Star Trek.

 

I know I need a new TV.

While I was at it I've realised that i was beginning to run low on table space, even though I've arrange my wheel to be movable to when I need it, I won't have room for a Joystick and throttle. Thus I've decided to give it a go with a keyboard drawer.

Now I know its not anything new, but when good sliding and shiveling keyboard drawer that use to be $400 dollars, gets reduced to $100, and it actually saves me from having to lean over to type, I think its worth it. http://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX46098 I Particularly needed to install the type that is attached by the center arm underneath, so that it wouldn't get in the way of my Steering when if I need to move it over.

Keyboard Drawer installation and Living room setup

I basically followed the standard setup using the template to drill holes and such.

However I have a slight variation. My table is one of those fold-ups with the metal bars in the way, and because of my desired set up my keyboard could not be center if I want to be aligned with my center monitor and still be able to watch TV on the Side.

My solution to this was to mount my center arm as close as possible to the right, and make the blue print fit me with some simple cutting action.

The rest of the set up is almost exactly the same as any other brand of center arm keyboard trays, but I did end up removing the complimentary mouse tray, cause it was getting too close to my thigh...

I had to also move my keyboard off to the right a bit to keep the keys centered, because even under normal circumstances I don't like how keyboards are usually placed off centered to somehow expect you to type off to the left.

Hopefully this method of setup, along with an awesome office chair, can promote a healthier lifestyle for everyone's Spinal Column.

Bezel Mirroring

In a previous Tutorial I showed how I came about thinning my bezels for my surround down to 1 cm. Now I shall cover up the rest of the black boarders with mirrors to come close to a seemless surround. Its not perfect all the time, but for an estimated budget of $34 its not bad.

More Examples in the bottom.

Materials you will need

A small sheet of Mirror. I got mine off my local art store for $13 bucks, I went for the solid item because reflective vinyl is too thin and flimsy so I need it to be solid.

-I gave my measurements to a professional at Cascade Glass in Calgary to cut because I didn't have time ($21 after tax) , but if you are keen you can follow this guide to use a table saw: How to cut Glass with a table saw

1 ' x 12 1/4"   where 1' was a little over twice the width of the bezel and 12 1/4" is the full flesh height of the monitors after I removed the cover from the previous tutorial.

Black Electrial Tape (BET)and Scissors 

This thing is staple 

Procedure

I'm only going to show how one side is done since it fairy obvious that the other side will be done in the same way only with accordance to where the mirror will be facing.

Cut out five straps of  BETs  at 3 inchss and four at 2 inches.

Five 3 inch straps

Four 2 inch Straps

Now take one of the 3 inch straps and lay it out flat sticky side up.

Place the mirror about a  little under a cm  from the end and in the middle of the side ontop of the tape like so.

Put the short end up against the edge.

Now fold in the short sides

Finsh the Cup by wrapping up the bottom.

Complete the other end of the mirror in the same way using another one of the 3 inch tapes

Now you are ready to apply it ontop the monitor. I spread the displays apart so it won't get in the way as I secure the top lightly at first just so I have something to hold on to before I fassen the bottom, While constently adjusting to eventually get a vision I'm comfortable with. 

Top

Bottem

Now I do the same thing with 2 more tapes at the botem applied at different angles to get more grip and one more tape at the top.

More tape to wrap around the back like so.

now I cut out angles out of the 2 inchs tapes I have before

And apply them to the bottom and top as shown; carful now to toped the displays or any part of the mirror that would have content to be reflected. 

So a brief Disclaimer, This isn't a perfect solution, but it takes the least time to do and is the least expensive for something that sometimes works, you will clearly see the distortions, but its stable, and does make things a little bit better. On a flat plain it will be unoticable, but as soon as there are any angles it will be noticed but for such a short span (that 1cm of bezel you are covering) you can eventually forgive, or maybe even forget its there, to complete the immersive experiance like a full length mirror. 

Hawken (Free on Steam)

RacingRoom Racing Experience (Free on Steam)

  Guild Wars 2  (Pay once no sub ever)